Training Cats

I've been a cat lover ever since I can remember. I don't have anything against dogs, except maybe that barking stuff, their smell, and having to go outside to relieve themselves in the middle of the night, and, well, a few more. Basically, I like the looks of most dogs, enjoy playing with them, admire their loyalty and skills, like watching them, but never wanted to have one.

Here are the cats I've had, in order:

Training actually starts before you get a cat or kitten. Spend some time with it before adoption to get a feel for any problem behaviors. Talk to the owner, breeder, or shelter personnel regarding the cat's disposition. If a cat is a biter, it will be better not to adopt it if you have small children or elderly around, no matter how cute it is, as correcting biting behavior takes a long time. I spent several years volunteering at a shelter with the cats and would discern the temperament and qualifiers for adoption. Many animals are surrendered to the shelters because they weren't a good match or carefully thought-out choice in the first place.

To avoid biting and scratching behavior from starting, never play with your kitten or cat with your hands- always use a toy. Cute kittens with small teeth develop into cats with larger teeth and strong jaws that can do damage. I had to train my kids not to do this ("Fingers are not toys") in order not to have a biting cat that will not know the difference between fingers and toys.

Litter box problems are another reason cats end up in the shelter. Cats are normally fastidious about their litter box and use them instinctively; litter box accidents (going outside the box) can be due to several factors:

• A medical problem- if your cat suddenly goes outside the box, it may be trying to tell you it's sick- schedule an appointment with your vet. My Smokey went outside the box because he had epilepsy and would go in a corner after a seizure.
• Not enough privacy-having the litter box where there is high traffic will deter its use. Compare your own feelings using the bathroom at home vs a public one.
• The wrong texture or smell - some cats are particular about what kind of litter they use. If there is no medical problem, try different types of litter until successful. I remember a cat at the shelter that absolutely refused to use any litter and only used carpet- we replaced the litter box with carpet remnants.

• Behavioral - "Experts" recommend at least one litter box for each cat, especially for homes with more than one level. We have always used a communal box (my husband built an extra large one lined with heavy-duty plastic) and have never had problems because it is kept clean. If you have two cats that don't get along well, this may play out with litter box problems.
• Trauma: Something happened when the cat was in the box and it avoids it now. Could be thunder, fireworks, kids shouting, anything. This would take some getting over, maybe to move the box or set up another in another location away from the original.

With kittens up to at least 6 months old, you can often use a mother cat's behavioral correction by grabbing the kitten by the scruff of the neck. When you see your kitten engaging in unwanted behavior, quietly, like the mother cat, grab the scruff and remove the kitten from the unwanted area to a more appropriate area or activity. This can also be used to calm an uncontrolled kitten with the "kitten crazies" - grab the scruff, hold it in front of you, make eye contact, and gently rock it till it calms down.

Some people have unrealistic expectations from their cats. People must be prepared to deal with cats' instinctive behaviors and accommodate for them:

• Climbing - Cats are natural climbers. Certain breeds (do your homework) like heights more than others. I have a rule that they are not allowed on kitchen chairs, counters, or the table. They get fast correction, but will do this when nobody is around.
• Scratching - Cats instinctively scratch to remove the outer sheaths of their nails, hence sharpening them. My cats do more scratching after a nail clipping. Provide a scratching post or other scratching material for them as an alternative to your furniture. If you have cats and are looking for new furniture, get a smooth fabric, not woven, which will be enticing for the cats.
• Hunting: Cats are instinctive hunters. Provide them with things to hunt (AKA toys) to satisfy their instinct. It is always preferable to keep your cat indoors, but some people let theirs outside where they are on the hunt. For the indoors, a laser toy or other things they can chase and capture (rather than your feet below the covers) will help satisfy this instinct.

Being a cat person, I found it quite ironic that I've become quite a fan of Cesar Milan, The Dog Whisperer. I marvel at his mastering of dogs he just met. I see my neighbors having trouble with their dogs' behaviors and can imagine what Cesar would do in each situation. He has such an understanding of dog behavior....I thought to myself, "What if some of his principles can be applied to cats?"

As a multiple cat owner for over 22 years, I've seen most of cats' behavior, good and bad. If I were to apply Cesar's principles to cats, I needed an understanding of cat behavior (which I have through readings and experience) and figure out where it differs from dog behavior:

1) Dogs are pack animals and need a leader - one leader (preferably the human) and the rest follow. On the contrary, cats have a hierarchy - they may fight or compete for "top cat", and the others for each lesser position. You are basically commanding the position of "top cat" spot with your top cat if you are to train your cats.

2) For some reason, dog owners are reluctant to get their animals spayed or neutered. If you want peace in your home with cats, spaying and neutering are essential. Hormones removed equals less jealousy, aggression, and territorial fighting, plus it removes the urge to wander out to pursue a mate. Unneutered male cats have been known to kill kittens to reduce competition, whereas my neutered males have loved kittens.

3) Cesar uses a "Ch" noise. This may or may not work with cats, since it sounds like a hiss and may be interpreted as aggression instead of redirection of attention.

4) Cats arch their backs and puff themselves up when threatened to look larger....Cesar's "stance" would be effective with cats since it would establish your "bigness".

Here's what I have done to "train" my cats:

1) Instead of using the "Ch" noise, I snap my fingers close to their face. Whatever unwanted activity / behavior, I get up, move to their location and snap my fingers right in front of their their face (which makes them pull back immediately), along with some admonition, a simple phrase, like "No", physically moving them away if necessary. With patience and MANY repetitions, I found over time (3-6 months) that I would have to just snap my fingers and not even need to get up.  Especially with kittens, use physical removal by lifting them by the scruff of the neck just as the mother cat would.  Once they get over 4-6 months old, they are generally too large to be lifted in this manner, however, you can still grasp the scruff while lifting from below to send a message.

2) An airjet spray is a very effective tool for getting a cat out of a Christmas tree. A shot of air in the rear from a "gun" with a hissing noise is a fairly inexpensive training tool. Obviously, do not spray in the face.

3) Cats learn "No" better than any other more wordy phrase. "Stop it", "Don't do that", etc. doesn't register as easily. In my experience, only a loud "Get Down!!!" works as well as "No".

4) If there is a really dominant cat, in order to be seen as that cat's superior, you have to establish your dominance as "top cat". For example, when they are exhibiting dominant behavior over the other cats over a toy, step over the toy, assume the "Cesar stance" (standing confident that you OWN this item), if they try to get it from you, do the finger snap thing, "No", and claim the toy. When they are calm, give them back the toy and play with them.

5) Start young! The sooner you establish yourself as "top cat" and stop unwanted behavior the better. Start grooming, nail clipping, and setting the rules as soon as you get your kitten (or older cat).

6) Use treats to reward good behavior. Certain medications are particularly bitter-tasting, which will prompt a negative response; if possible, try to put the pill in an empty gelatin capsule, which may be available from your vet or pharmacist. My cat Maximus needs daily medication (as did Smokey); all I have to do is shake the pill bottle and he comes running to get his treat- after nicely taking the pill. If I have to hunt him down, which rarely happens, he gets no treat. The other two cats are more challenging...I usually have to sneak up on them while they're sleeping.

All of my cats have been very social - I get compliments about how nice they are.  It's not by accident. Most of those reading this can relate to when you go to a house and the cat hides or is nasty. In the early years, Barney was the pioneer, but he was a special cat.  We had people that would take him into their home while we traveled for up to a month.  They didn't want to give him back because he was such fun!  I have done extensive training with my cats, learning along the way, to have social cats that behave and that we and our guests enjoy. The first three I didn't do "homework" on, but tried to train and socialize them. The second three I chose carefully and learned from the first three.